Thames Ditton Today: Round and About - A visit to the City of Bath

Winter 2005 issue

Pulteney Bridge Since prehistoric times the Bath area has attracted inquisitive visitors, drawn by the healing properties of the hot spring water. Some visitors such as the Romans who built their sacred baths, stayed for centuries, and the later Tudor Abbey and the fine Georgian architecture bear witness to the inspirations of their creators. The city was designated a World Heritage Site in 1987 and has preserved its treasures for all to enjoy.

With much to appreciate it may be helpful to mention the main attractions and on the way make reference to the other areas which are perhaps, not so well known. A start is made at the Roman Baths which were built around 65 A.D. and included a temple dedicated to Minerva and the Celtic goddess, Sulis. There is now a museum at the Baths telling the story of their discovery and excavation in 1880. In Georgian times a lady visitor, after a soak in the baths, would dress and attend the Pump Room for the recommended glass of mineral water and the essential gossip. Perhaps a grand public breakfast would follow and a call at one of the more fashionable coffee houses.

Nearby at the bottom of the High Street, is the Abbey. There has been a building on this site since 676 and included a Norman Priory built in 1090 which due to neglect, was in ruins before 1500. The present Abbey was not completed until 1617. The story of a visionary dream that inspired the rebuilding of the Abbey is depicted on the West Front. There are Heritage Vaults showing the growth of Christianity in Bath from Roman times to the present day. The Abbey interior is flooded with light and the stained glass the east end depicts scenes from the life of Christ. High above the choir is the spectacular fan vaulting. The Abbey Church Yard, however, always seems to have attracted revellers and was described by Defoe 300 years ago, a place of raffling, gaming and levity!

Adjacent to the Baths is the Pump Room which has been the centre of Bath's social life since 1706 and still opens its doors to many people each day, though the fashion of 'drinking the waters' has subsided. This started in 1661 with the installation of a drinking fountain and by 1706 there was a need for a social centre and the first Pump Room was opened, which was rebuilt towards the end of the 18th century.

The Guildhall and Pulteney Bridge

Proceeding along the High Street we come to the Guildhall. The first building of its kind was erected in the 13th century but the building seen now was built in 1777 and was extended in the 1890s. There is a fine chandeliered first-floor banqueting room with a minstrels gallery. The Guildhall was created for civil functions which were not permitted at the privately owned Upper Assembly Rooms. There is a market hall on the site where a stone table is situated and from which the expression 'paying on the nail' originates; traders would bargain here and settle their business transactions promptly. Also in the Guildhall Quarter of the City are the Parade Gardens and the Orange Grove, so called after a visit by Prince William of Orange in 1734. In addition, the Victoria Art Gallery is worth a visit. This was opened in 1900 to mark Queen Victoria's diamond jubilee.

Proceeding towards Broad Street, one passes the road leading to Pulteney Bridge which was designed by Robert Adam and completed in 1774. The bridge is lined with shops and supported on three elegan1 arches. Nearby is Pulteney Weir which was built to prevent the floods which had devastated the lower part of the City. On Great Pulteney Street which is the widest in Bath, the buildings stand 100ft apart. This area was frequently visited by Jane Austen (1775-1817) from her home in Sydney Place.

Queen Square and Towards the Circus

In the opposite direction to Pulteney Bridge is a road leading to the Theatre Royal, which along with the Garrick's Head pub, was originally the home of Beau Nash, celebrated Master of Ceremonies. Queen Square is not far from here, which was designed by the architect John Wood in the Palladian style with an imposing facade on the north side concealing seven town houses.

The Royal CrescentThe main shopping centre is adjacent and nearby is the Bath Postal Museum from which the letter bearing the world's first postage stamp was sent on 2nd May 1840. Continuing to the north of the City one comes to the Circus and Royal Crescent which was part of John Wood's development plan. However, not long after work had begun in 1754, Wood died, leaving his son to complete his vision. Wood the Younger took 15 years to finish the Circus and then moved on to design the Royal Crescent which was the first of its kind. The Royal Crescent was completed in 1774 and contains a semielliptical terrace of 30 grand houses ornamented with many Ionic columns. It is separated from the park below by a haha and a wall built to prevent sheep and cows from straying onto the Crescent. Nearby is the Upper Assembly Rooms, so called to distinguish them from the old assembly rooms in the lower part of town. Opened in 1771 they were designed for 'assemblies' of up to a thousand guests. Situated in the basement of the Assembly Rooms is the Museum of Costume, from the 16th century to the present.

Many well-known people have resided in Bath from time to time, including Elizabeth Linley and the playwright Richard Sheridan, Horatio Nelson and Lady Hamilton who lived in Pierrepoint Place. Lady Hamilton as a girl had served in the Linley House. Also residing were Ralph Allen (1693-1764) in his magnificent town house, and Sally Lunn who came from France bringing with her the recipe for the famous buns. There are also numerous parks and open spaces as well as other museums in the City.

Terry Ford

Links:
Bath Preservation Trust
Bath Quarterly