Local history
Thames Ditton Then and Now
A celebration of a village just across the Thames from Hampton Court Palace
After a three year journey, researching, illustrating and even knocking on people’s doors to ask questions about local features, resident Edmund Woolley has written and produced Thames Ditton Then and Now. Featuring his own paintings, old black and white photos alongside new colour ones and maps from 1897 and 1912, it is a great introduction to local history, especially anyone new to the area. Edmund said: “The book is not intended to be a comprehensive history of Thames Ditton. It’s my own personal story in words, photos and paintings, of life in the village from the past to the present day, I hope people enjoy it.”
Read below or download as pdf. If you do want to download and in recognition of his work producing the booklet, Edmund would be grateful if you could make a donation to Guide Dogs for the Blind www.guidedogs.org.uk
We start our journey…
to Thames Ditton by looking at this map of 1912. It shows the third Hampton Court Bridge opened in 1865 which went from the Mitre Hotel to Bridge Road in East Molesey.
The present bridge built in 1933 runs from the Mitre Hotel past where the Castle Hotel once was and now is the new road Hampton Court Way (as shown in orange). It takes us to Summer Road where we turn left for Thames Ditton –
Surrey’s best kept secret’ as described by HJC Estate Agents.
There is a plaque on the present bridge stating that a Mr. Allen built a bridge at Hampton Court, at his own expense. It was a toll bridge allowing Mr. Allen to recoup his outlay. It was bought by the Metropolitan Board of Works in 1876 and the toll was lifted, amidst loud cheering.
My painting shows the present view from Bridge Road across the Thames to the Mitre Hotel. The three dark arches near the water line in the middle of the picture show where the old bridge shown on the map of 1912 connected.
To date there have been 4 bridges, the latest shown above.
Thames Ditton became significant after Hampton Court Palace was built by Thomas Wolsey in the early 16th century. When the Palace was claimed by Henry VIII in 1525, Palace officials and other workers came to live in Thames Ditton.
Thames Ditton Island was a handy crossing point by ferry to the Palace before the first bridge at Hampton Court was built in 1753.
Thames Ditton had some heavy industries in Edwardian England such as the Ferry Works and the Bronze Foundry but it was still rural enough to provide employment for farmers, farriers, blacksmiths, corn and flour dealers and dairymen.
There are several places in England with Ditton in their name. For example: Fen Ditton near Cambridge, Little Ditton and Ditton Green near Newmarket, all from the Old English word ‘dic’ meaning ditch or embankment while ‘tun’ meant a settlement, village or farmstead.
Summer Road
This image c1914 shows the end of Summer Road (named because it flooded in winter) and the Swan Pub, which is on the left and also on our front cover before the bridge to Thames Ditton Island was built.
We see the old and new eras, of the horse and cart and the new motor car on the left, not yet creating fear for the lady, her baby and free roaming dogs.
The shops on the right have now gone but it’s interesting that one offered the use of a public telephone, presumably at a cost. By the 1930s only affluent homes had a telephone.
John Cadbury created the Cadbury Chocolate bar in 1847. The shop on the right is presumably selling the iconic Cadbury Dairy Milk bar which was introduced in 1905.
Ferry Works
A few yards behind on the left is the Old Ferry Works, an industrial complex going back over 200 years with the old building complex still existing, which has been restored, retaining the heritage of the old building.
Plaques celebrate Willans & Robinson who designed and manufactured their revolutionary steam engine here.
In 1884 Willans claimed that Ferry Works was the first factory illuminated by electric light. Present day staff enjoy their own private seating area on the banks of the Thames.
AC Cars were also here for a time before they moved to the High Street.
The Foundry
Across the road from the Ferry Works was The Foundry, founded in 1874 by Cox & Son on the site of an historic melting or sometimes called smelting house which had been on the same site for 300 years.
A young local resident who lived near the Foundry said: “there was a huge set of wooden doors which when open gave on to a great workshop, where sweating men poured molten metal from glowing pots into moulds”. He would spend ages transfixed by the sights, sounds and smells.
The most famous bronze statues in the British Empire were cast here.
The picture shows King George V and Queen Mary with the boss A.B.Burton visiting the statue of Edward VII before it was transported to New Delhi. It was taken down in 1947 after the partition of India.
From 1969 it now has a new home in Toronto’s Queen’s Park, Canada.
Peace Quadriga
In 1909 work was started on the casting of the ‘Peace Quadriga’ one of the largest bronze castings ever made in Britain. Weighing 38 tons and standing 32 feet high, it would take 3.5 years to complete.
Installed on top of Wellington Arch at Hyde Park Corner, it represents the angel of peace alighting on the chariot of war which is pulled by 4 horses.
Eros
Eros, the statue from Piccadilly Circus, was repaired and cleaned but not cast here. Eros, the Greek god of love, was returned to Piccadilly Circus in 1931.
The image of Eros can be seen in the logo designed for our Thames Ditton Gin company, pictured left.
On the outbreak of the Second World War the Foundry was closed, as they didn’t want it to be requisitioned for arms production.
It was eventually demolished in 1976.
The blue plaque on the left is on the corner of the new building now called Foundry House.
Old Smokehouses
At the end of the Thames View property, just a few yards from the Swan Pub, is a tall brick tower. There has been speculation that it was once an air vent for a tunnel to Hampton Court Palace!
It belongs to Thames View and was once a ‘Smokehouse’ where meat was smoked for two weeks and then could be stored for months. Smoking was not to improve the taste of meat but to preserve it to last longer.
Thames View
Formerly ‘The Home of Compassion’
Thames View care home offers nursing and dementia care for elderly residents. The former Home of Compassion, a Grade II listed building dating back to the 18th century was renamed Thames View in 2024.
Built in 1786 and originally called Boyle Farm as the owners owned across the road behind the old Red Lion pub, a farmyard, asparagus garden, which contained a grapery, kitchen garden and a drying garden!
Boyle Farm was sold in 1890 and the auction catalogue mentions a tunnel (now sealed) under the road to the farmyard and kitchen garden.
Apart from access to the gardens, the tunnel was used to quickly transport freshly cooked meals which were prepared in The Home of Compassion to St Agnes Children’s Home (which no longer exists).
The Home of Compassion was created in 1905 to care for poor women. Many had been abandoned when they became pregnant. Because they were unmarried, hospitals and other institutions refused to admit them. In 1982 the Home had its own surgery, a chapel, cloisters and a laundry.
The first Red Lion
The wording at the bottom of this picture mentions trams. Electric trams were first introduced in 1906 but as indicated above, ‘the horse is well catered for’, giving a possible date of around 1910 for this photo. Was everybody asked to come out of the pub to stand still for a picture with the ladies leaving the Saloon Bar, which was the upscale, comfortable area and the men from the Public Bar, after drinking stout or porter, a well-hopped dark beer?
There was ‘good accommodation’ for visitors and even with ‘beds’ as written on the vertical post above. The Red Lion was changed to ‘Ditto’, then became ‘The Foundry’. Now in 2025 a new Red Lion is created.
Alms windows
Across the road from the Old Smoke house is Thames Villa, a property dating back to 1790 with parts even older than that.
This view shows 3 windows in the outside wall, the bottom one, now sealed, is believed to be an ‘alms window’ for the distribution of food or money, for the ill or poor.
St. Nicholas’ Church
St.Nicholas’ a beautiful Anglican Parish church is a Grade I listed building dating back to 1120.
Since then there have been many alterations but with some of its Norman Heritage still visible. It houses many treasures including one of the finest fonts in Surrey.
In 2020 it celebrated 900 years at the centre of our community.
In order to serve those who live locally, the Church opened a Foodbank hub in the Church Hall on Tuesday mornings, this gives the opportunity to listen to clients needs and signpost them to other agencies that may be able to help with their concerns. There is also a Community Coffee morning on Tuesdays in the Church Hall, which is free (voluntary donations) and is not just for those who come to the Foodbank.
For details contact the Parish Office: 020 8398 9641
Our Lady of Lourdes
Before the Catholic church was built on Hampton Court Way it was decided to first build a school.
St Pauls’ R.C. Primary School was opened in 1963 with 120 children. Plans for the new church, to be built in the round, where the priest could be surrounded by the people, were approved. It was built next to the school and was opened on All Saints’ Day 1965.
The 12ft high statue of Christ was carved in situ and placed over the main entrance to the church.
Mass is on Mondays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, with coffee after.
The Gillespie Hall has been the venue for many fundraisers and socials over the years: quiz nights, strawberry teas, music evenings and more.
There are extensive youth activities all year round and the Toddler Playgroup is open to the public every Friday 9-10am. Mass is livestreamed to ensure the housebound can receive Mass at home.
See website for more info: holyfamilyelmbridge.church
The Garden of Remembrance
Occasionally when I am walking to St Nicholas’ from the High Street in the direction of Church Walk, I go into the Garden of Remembrance, just opposite the Church entrance (also shown red in my painting). It is well tended by about 10 volunteers throughout the year.
In the summer I sit and enjoy this peaceful garden in the centre of our village.
King’s Church
At the end of Speer Road, close to the station we have King’s Church which was formed recently in the old United Reformed Church building.
King’s Church is part of the New Ground family of Churches. New Ground are working to see many churches planted across the world.
Each Sunday morning is the time for sung worship, a talk from the Bible, activities for children and teenagers and a chance to catch up over tea and coffee.
King’s Church serves the local community through Thames Tots – a parent/guardian toddler group, a youth group and Elderberries – a group for over 60s, to connect for friendship and through Alpha – a course for those wanting to explore the Christian faith.
Visitors are warmly welcome.
They post sermons ‘online’ that you can link up to: www.kingschurch.com
Picton House
Picton House across the road from Thames View was the home of Cesar Picton, as the plaque says; in 1761 a six year old was brought from Senegal, West Africa and as Sir John Philips says: a black boy was given to me, also a paraquet and a foreign duck.
He lived with the Philips family for many years, was educated and treated very well and accepted as one of their own, never becoming a servant. He eventually became independent and took the surname ‘Picton’ from the name of Picton Castle in Pembrokeshire where he spent his early years.
Cesar inherited £100 from Lady Philips in 1788 and Sir John’s unmarried daughters also left him legacies, which enabled him to start a coal trading business from a house in Kingston High Street, also called Picton House and bearing a plaque.
He spent his final years in Thames Ditton in this house he bought for £400 in 1816 and lived there until his death in 1836 aged 81.
The view from Picton House shows meat hanging outside ‘Harman’ butchers. Before refrigeration in the late 19th century meat was hung outside to take advantage of cooler temperatures. In the past the village boasted of having three butchers.
Next door was an early Budgens now replaced by Little Foray Hair & Beauty.
Further along to the right are four 16th century wooden panelled (clap boarded) houses, where in the past some of the staff lived and from there took the ferry to work at Hampton Court Palace.
The houses have different plaques: ‘AN ENGLISH LISTED BUILDING’ and the other ‘BUILDING OF SPECIAL INTEREST’. Both plaques give the buildings legal protection.
In 1495 it was ordained that all vagrants should spend three days and three nights in the stocks but in 1503 it was reduced to one day and one night.
Thames Ditton’s village stocks were situated on the spot, now occupied by the Drinking Fountain shown above. It was donated by Hannibal Speer, Lord of the Manor, in 1879.
Hampton Court Palace is one of a group of six palaces, all members of the charity ‘Historic Royal Palaces’
The others are:
Tower of London, Banqueting House,
Kensington Palace, Kew Palace,
Hillsborough Castle and Gardens.
To become a member contact: members@hrp.org.uk
AC Cars 1901-1986
In 1901 John Weller, an engineer backed by John Portwine a wealthy tradesman, set up a small engineering workshop in South London to build motor cars. The firm at that time was known as Autocar & Accessories.
In 1911, now known as Auto Carriers Ltd., they moved to larger premises called Ferry Works, in Thames Ditton.
They finally moved to the site in the High Street and when they closed in 1986 they were known as AC Cars.
The AC Cobra 427 in 1966 was one of the fastest accelerating cars in the world, capable of 0-60 mph in 4 seconds.
For 75 years AC Cars provided employment for hundreds of local people and contributed to automotive excellence in Surrey.
The AC name carries international recognition and ranks alongside other worldwide historic marques. Apart from cars they made invalid carriages, airship engines and railway trains.
As early as the 1920s, AC Cars held world speed records including the first light car to cover 100 miles in one hour, recorded at Brooklands.
They also entered cars into the Monte Carlo Rally with strong results, including winning outright in 1926.
The dark blue oval plaque featured above can be seen on a building just as you go into Ashley Road.
Another blue plaque above the Secret Garden florists in the High Street marks the old site of AC Cars’ head Office.
The Great Flood
The village was hit by floods in 1968 when the rivers Mole and Ember burst their banks. The extent of the flooding went from Portsmouth Road to the River Thames.
The youngsters in canoes enjoyed it but many homes were damaged, telephones were out and many people had no electricity. Communications were kept with the ‘outside world’ by the police via short wave radio stations set up at Imber Court sports ground.
The army were called in from Aldershot to distribute sandbags, food and evacuate where needed, using lorries and Dukws – a WW2 amphibious vehicle designed to travel both on land and in water.
As a result of The Great Flood the rivers are now regulated through sluices, locks and other structures to minimise serious flood risk again.